Trincomalee DIY – August 13/14/15/16
8/13
The bus arrives at 4.00, I try to get some rest on plastic chairs in the waiting room of the terminal, at one point I think I have hallucinations because I see a spotted deer with magnificent antlers, which wanders on the sidewalks. I will discover later, in full light, the city is teeming with these lovely mammals, looking for scraps in rubbish bins, or eating grass in the cemetery or in the roundabouts.
I have breakfast at the City Hotel, run by Muslims, 40 LKR, a tea and cake, and walk to the New Silver Star GH, which is not far, 2500 LKR, but the room is very bad, and expensive, given the quality , so I decide to stay there only one night. Too bad because the managers are very friendly.
I going to look around at the beach on the Dutch Bay, sky and sea are steel colored, though the bay is calm, and the beach clean
I walk on ahead Dyke the street, facing the sea, with beautiful colorful houses
where travelers recommended me some hotels, but the cheapest ones overlook inner courtyards, and still cost more than mine. Disturbing signs indicating the tsunami escape routes
It’s not a great day for seaside life, and in fact after a while it starts raining, I shelter in my gloomy room. After a couple of hours I get out again
Three samosas at City Hotel cost me 120 LKR, but I find excellent ones everywhere. A really good fruit juice at Kumars Cream House costs 100 LKR.
I check the streets around the cemetery, and I come across the excellent Sunshine Hall, in Green Street, where a room costs only 1200 LKR, and is much better than the New Silver Star. The managers, however, are grumpy, especially the lady. I reserve a room for the next day.
I walk to the station to inquire about train reservation to Colombo, they provide me with timetables, but the issuance and payment can be made only in the morning, so I’ll have to go back. The first class berth costs 1200 LKR, the second class seat 500 LKR. There are two trains, with departures at 7.00 and 19.30. I go back to city centre, to Fort Frederick walls, crossing a beautiful conifers and frangipani park.
I visit the Koneswaram Temple, rather insignificant, I must say, as a building, even if spectacularly built on the rocks overlooking the sea
Beautiful views of the bay and the city at sunset
Even here, magnificent fawns which gnaw coconuts shells. Dinner at the City Hotel 120 LKR for a rice and curry only so and so, much worse than the one in Haputale
I go early to bed
8/14
At 7.30 I move to the new hotel
Breakfast at City Hotel, 35 LKR for a crepe with coconut milk and tea. Then I buy a watermelon from a street vendor, 40 LKR. Taking advantage of the sunshine, I go to the bus terminal and ask information to reach Nilaveli. I take a bus to Palmude, cost 40 LKR. I see through the window that there are dirt roads that, perpendicular to the main one reach the sea, and get off close to one of them as soon as someone kindly tells me that we are arrived in Nilaveli. The path I walk is the main one, so it’s a bustle of tuk tuk, microbuses, and vehicles of all kinds.
I get to a big open space that serves as a parking lot, with stalls of sweets, fruit, toys, smelly dried fish.
Impressions: the beach is wide, golden color, nothing to do with the blinding white ones found in Zanzibar, or Dominican Republic. The sea is clean, but green, nothing more. Calm, with a ong wave. Palm trees at the edges are in private ownership, so there is very little shade
Let’s say that it’s okay to rest a couple of days, but after a week here I would commit suicide.
Another detail, even here women are all covered. A Western one in bikini attracts attention if she is with her partner, if she is alone, very likely many local boys will talk to her, just to look at her more closely, and ask to take a picture. I do not refuse to be in the pictures, but I put my clothes on, and some guys protest. I soon get tired to be so exposed, and I end up staying in sarong and T-shirt. It’s a bit of a hassle, but I can understand them.
Although this is the best season for the east coast, at noon the sky darkens, so I think it’s good to leave. At 14.00 it starts raining, and stops at 17.30. It will be so for the entire stay. Luch at City Hotel 180 LKR (desserts and a salad). Dinner (a little greasy) at Vegetarian Restaurant Anna Poorani, near the City Hotel, 200 LKR
8/15
220 LKR breakfast at Kumara (tea, a pancake with coconut, a sweet chocolate, and a chicken sandwiches)
I organize in time and leave early enough, expecting only a sunny morning. Today’s destination is Oppuveli, same bus as yesterday but I get off earlier. (cost 17 LKR). Here there are more western people on the beach
and I am not too exposed to men curiosity if undressed. The buildings are low, wooden, and do not clash with the natural environment like beach resorts in Passekudah. It seems still to stay in certain Thai islands not yet ruined by mass tourism
The hazy sun, again, disappears at noon, same old story as yesterday. I spend 20 LKR in a cyber cafe in front of Cargill, and then have dinner at the Park Restaurant (200 LKR)
16/8
Breakfast at City Hotel 80 LKR. Again Nilaveli. Arriving early I can take possession of the shade under the only palm in the middle of the beach.
Being alone I do not trust too much to stay longtime in the water because I have all the money in my bag, but it would have been more foolish to leave it in the hotel room..
I go for a walk to the south, the opposite direction to the center, and finally really none, only a little family, some fishermen
Noon: clouds. Today is Sunday, and no bus pass. Two Dutch backpackers stop their tuk tuk and give me a lift (200 LKR my part). I was not really worried, but would not like to miss my train at 19.30 tonight.
After a raindrops a pale sun peeps, I decide to go to the Dutch Bay beach. While I’m sitting, I am approached by some teenagers, who start talking to me, one of them is particularly attracted by my skin, she first touches my forearm, then, since I do not I react, she tries again, with my knee and my hair. The girls introduce me to their mothers, a man who emigrated to Belgium, now on holiday, is translating. Everybody wants a picture.
I reach the station under a pouring rain, with a tuk tuk (150 LKR) Train is on time and as usual a little dirty.